The play began at the Williamstown Theater Festival in the Berkshires, where, Ms. She received acclaim in a starring role opposite Billy Crudup in 1995’s “Arcadia” at Lincoln Center and won an Obie Award in 1997 for the play “Good as New.” She was having to hustle harder and harder for the roles.Īnd then in 2008 she appeared at the Roundabout Theater in “Crimes of the Heart,” co-starring with Sarah Paulson and Lily Rabe. Dundas broadened her repertoire but began finding herself pigeonholed. Soffel” and “The First Wives Club.” After hitting adolescence, Ms. She specialized in playing daughters: Robert Redford’s in “Legal Eagles” Beau Bridges’s in “The Hotel New Hampshire” Diane Keaton’s twice, in “Mrs. Dundas began appearing on Broadway and in Hollywood as a child actor. Dundas already had a career, one I had watched her develop since she was 9. Moreover, the move was confusing because Ms. I remember watching her open her shop on Atlantic with puzzlement, knowing that she had essentially no business experience (a not uncommon origin story in the ice cream industry, it turned out). Dundas is part of the ice cream old guard. The plan was something of a gamble: a modest expansion while remaining true to Blue Marble’s indie roots and hopefully sidestepping the financial risks and loss of control that come with outside funding. Dundas hoped would be the city’s pandemic reawakening. Using the brand’s own money, Blue Marble would add a single shop on Manhattan’s Upper West Side in time for what Ms. Last winter, after watching several rivals go the private equity route and others quietly fold, Ms. You have to constantly raise money to compete.” On the contrary, it has triggered thoughts of exiting the business, as it has for other artisan producers. Dundas, who opened her first scoop shop back when an after-dinner ice cream run usually meant a plunge into a bodega freezer or a trip to a dreary chain, the artisan ice cream boom has been the vindication of a vision. Dundas has been in the field for 14 years, but I’ve known her even longer - we grew up in the same Boston suburb - and through her have seen how ruthless selling organic banana cream pie ice cream in biodegradable bowls can be.įor Ms. Small, indie producers like Jennifer Dundas, the co-founder of Blue Marble in Brooklyn, have driven the innovation in the past decade.
Artisan ice cream - a “squishy” term, she said, that usually refers to product with less air and more fat but “mostly just means ‘fancy’” - is growing even faster than mainstream ice cream and is considered the industry’s future. It has never been a better time to eat ice cream or a more cutthroat time to try to sell it.įueled by pandemic trends of “at-home comfort” and “anytime eating,” the $7 billion industry grew 17 percent in 2020, after roughly 2.4 percent annual growth over the previous decade, said Jennifer Mapes-Christ of the market research firm Packaged Facts. That is traditional grocery store wisdom, mainly so the product won’t melt in the cart as it winds through the aisles.įor shoppers worn down by the journey through a hangar-size Whole Foods, it’s also a reward: an ultradecadent bounty in an ever-multiplying variety of daring and imaginative flavors. Put the ice cream near the cash registers.
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